The base camp of Khumbu Glacier is a mountaineer’s maintenance point. Keeping in touch with the outside world is possible only via satellite phones. The maintenance of the gear takes place in freezing conditions. Drying up, the clothes freeze into clumps of ice and the food freezes up on a plate. Already at the base camp, you are face to face with the forces of nature; you can hear the massive boom of the avalanches and the sound of collapsing ice floes. The conflicting feelings of fear, hope and frustration begin creeping up on climbers. Some will continue pursuing their dream while many will already return home at this point.

Khumbu Icefall: 5500m-6100m

From the base camp the expedition will continue towards the notorious Khumbu Icefall. The house-sized seracs, crevasses and moving ice blocks make Khumbu Icefall one of the most dangerous legs of the route. To minimize the risks, the climbers head out before dawn, when the temperature is cold enough to keep the ice blocks from collapsing. The Sherpas and the members of the expedition have secured the route with ropes and ladders. Here, for the first time, the climbers will enter the ladders with their crampons to cross vast crevasses. It is hard to breathe due to the altitude and excitement. The gear that the Sherpas are carrying is three times heavier and the respect for these local people increases. Depending on the acclimatization the first camp will be reached after 3-8 hours of climbing. After crossing the Khumbu Icefall the first leg of the journey to the top is over!

This is where the climbers will stay over night to acclimatize. At night a booming sound rushes deep down below the tent. It originates in the glacier as massive crevasses keep opening and closing. The sounds as well as the pounding headache due to the lack of oxygen keep the climbers awake.

Trekking to Camp 2:

The journey continues from camp 1 to camp 2 through the Valley of Silence. The valley, extending on a flat area of endless snow, amazes with its beauty. Deep crevasses and frequent avalanches are characteristics of the valley. Because of the crevasses in the middle of the valley, the climbers are forced to cross the Valley of Silence from the right side next to the foot of Nuptse. According to its name, the valley is usually sheltered from the wind, which together with the altitude and clear weather often turns this leg of the route unbearably hot in the daytime. Then again, clouds, wind or snowfall can suddenly turn it brutally cold. The valley is still one of the easiest parts even though the ever-changing weather conditions and deep snow may turn the easy part into a difficult one quite fast. Here, for the first time, Everest is right in front of the mountaineers’ eyes. After 3-7 hours of endless climbing, the expedition will reach camp 2.

Camp 2 is right at the foot of the icy Lhotse wall, where it is possible to admire the breathtaking views and see how clouds move upward from the valleys of Himalayas into to the camp. Here the mountaineers can speed the acclimatization by going for walks around the camp looking for climbing gear that earlier expeditions have left behind. The last chance to have a proper meal in a while is here at camp 2. On the trek to camp 3, which is in the middle of the icy and snowy Lhotse wall, the climbers will step onto the fixed ropes. Climbing the steep wall is tough. The thoughts may not be too clear, but it is crucial to concentrate, because one single slip can seal your destiny. The climb will take 6-8 hours.

Camp 3 is right in the middle of the steep Lhotse wall. The hard climb is rewarded by a grand view. Here the climbers are secured in ropes at all times as the tents are set up on a narrow platform on the steep ice wall, where it takes only one slip to fall. Going to the toilet at night is a hard task with all the dressing and securing. Every now and then you will hear a howling sound when rocks or blocks of ice fall down the wall. In such altitudes, the nature really begins to challenge a climber’s will to get higher. At this point, the ultimate goal is literally getting clearer, which offers some much needed relief. Now the climbers are well on their way to the summit. During the climb it is essential to watch out for the falling ice and that is why it is crucial to stay focused, watch your head and take regular breaks. The goal is already in sight.

From camp 3 the journey continues towards the Deathzone, where a human being can survive only for a couple of days. From this point forward most mountaineers will start using oxygen. The climb starts before dawn and before sunrise it is extremely cold. Then again, when the sun gets right above the climbers, the heat can become suffocating in a down gear. Camp 4 will be reached after 4-8 hours of climbing.

The name of camp 4 is based on the unlucky facts. The climbers are at the edge of the atmosphere and the sky has a strange, dark blue colour to it. As an exciting contrast, the view from the camp to the Tibetan plateau and all the other beautiful gigantic sights such as Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu, is magical and surreal. The atmospheric pressure at the top of Everest is only a third of the sea level pressure and without oxygen it is possible to survive only for a little while. The temperature can drop to -40°C and when skin gets in contact with the cold air frostbites begin to occur. The snow is icy and the risk of slipping or falling is high. Hard winds are also a potential risk and change of weather needs to be constantly observed. The fear shows on most faces and people do not talk a lot. The most demanding challenge is still ahead.

The steep push to the top takes place in dark and cold surroundings. That is why the gear should be checked in daylight. You need to drink a lot of fluid and for the climb itself you need to bring several litres of fluid with you. Resting in a tent you feel weak already. By nightfall you need to try to get some sleep before the last attempt – the summit push! At the Deathzone the top of the mountain seems dark and steep and you cannot help but think that there are many who have not returned from the last attempt. During the next 48 hours the risks at their highest. The cold, scary darkness outside is not inviting and while the hard wind is shaking the tent canvas, not many are able to sleep a wink. The hardest is yet to come: you still have to keep going.

Fair weather and mild wind are crucial factors in deciding whether to attempt to reach the summit or not. If the weather gets worse the mountaineers must descend.

The summit attempt starts at midnight when the climbers put on the final gear and head out into the dark night to reach the top. There is still 1000 metres and 10-12 hours to the top. The climbers’ head torches form a line of light, which is slowly moving up the dark wall. It is extremely cold and the mountainside is steep and at parts very icy. It is totally silent and nobody is talking. Everyone is terrified but the adrenaline keeps you on the move even when you feel like giving up. Finally, after hours of desperation, a blue beam of light can be seen in the horizon: the sun is rising! The lucky ones get to see the mountain reflecting a giant shadow onto the morning mist. The world below bathes in the rays of the morning light, and the body gets to feel the returning warmth and hope.

Via the South Summit you will reach a sharp, steep ridge, where a slip to the left will make you fall for over 2000 metres and a slip to the right for 3000 metres. The final challenge is the huge Hillary Step, where, due to a large number of climbers, you might have to wait for your turn for quite a while. Finally, 8-16 hours after the early start, the white peak is on the horizon. At this point, reaching the top of the world rewards the mountaineers’ months’ work. The stay at the top of the world is as short as possible, so that the summiteers can safely come down to camp 4 before dark and possible bad weather in the afternoon. After all, reaching the top is only making it halfway through. From the top down starts the part of the journey which has taken the most lives, as a body stressed to its maximum must keep going and focus until camp 4 is reached. After nearly 30 hours of climbing you will take the last exhausted steps into your tent, where you will fall asleep. The following day, when sun wakes you up and later on, when you reach the base camp, you can congratulate yourself: you made it and reached your goal on the top of the world!